Loewe: Luxury Redefined

Although the name Loewe (pronounced Lo-é-vé) sounds very Spanish, it was in fact a German immigrant by the name of Heinrich Roessberg Loewe who originally founded the label back in 1846 at his studio in Madrid. It soon became the benchmark for high quality accessories and even received the royal stamp of approval; its success was such that a ready-to-wear collection was launched in 1965. Various designers took over the helm after Loewe was purchased in 1996 by LVMH, but it was not until 2013 when Jonathan Anderson was made Creative Director that the brand gained a modern identity. This young Irishman (who also designs for his own label) has succeeded in giving Loewe a real sense of relevance as a luxury player. His new aesthetic is distinct, with sophisticated clothing sitting alongside conceptual leather goods. Anderson is going back to the start and reengineering Loewe. He has introduced a new logo designed by M/M (Paris), refitted more than 150 stores and chose to use photos taken by Steven Meisel in the 1990s for his SS17 advertising campaign, even though none of the brand’s clothing actually featured in them. It was a risk that ultimately earned him praise from those in the industry and helped re-position Loewe at the centre of artistic culture, where it had always aimed to be.

Jonathan Anderson knows his customer inside out. She’s elegant, refined and after luxury pieces that feel modern yet ageless. The clothes are fashioned from jute, linen or soft leather, and incorporate asymmetric shapes, raw edges and gentle flashes of colour. Collections have been inspired by structures and sculptures, and so naturally appeal to lovers of contemporary, avant-garde art. This feeling is reflected in the scenery created for the shows and the venues chosen to present them in, last season it was the UNESCO Headquarters in Paris. The designs for the Loewe woman marry her taste with her lifestyle, her appreciation of traditional, retro chic with her passion for art. Garments incorporate reflections on form, volume and proportion… a fashion statement produced in the manner of an artistic concept.

Owing to its origins as a leather goods company, Loewe has long specialised in handbags and luggage, particularly in leather. The Amazona and the Flamenco have been bestsellers for decades, throughout the brand’s fluctuating history. Now thanks to Anderson, there are now some stylish new contenders. He has embraced an inventive creativity when it comes to these new designs, which feature angular, geometric shapes as seen in the Puzzle, the Elephant (a mini leather bag cleverly folded to look like the animal), the Panda and most recently, the unusual cat head messenger bags that have had fashionistas hooked. Anderson has breathed fresh life into Loewe yet simultaneously implanted that crucial sense of history that was so obviously missing; successfully sealing the longevity of the brand.