How to Authenticate a Pre-loved Bag
At Vestiaire Collective, we have over 15 years of experience and 60,000 hours of training in luxury and designer authentication. Ever wondered how we authenticate all those luxury and designer bags? Here's a few of our top tips for spotting the real deal...
Check the Year of the Collection
Start by looking at the brand and the manufacturing period. Knowing each designer and each era's specific characteristics helps spot counterfeits. For example, a vintage Dior Saddle bag would have a velcro closure, whereas a contemporary Saddle bag has a magnet.
Authenticate from the Outside In
When authenticating, we follow a precise methodology, and each checkpoint helps us to confirm authenticity. Start by examining every detail on the exterior for errors, then repeat inside. Apply this method to all the additional elements too, including the packaging, dust bag, shoulder strap, and more.
Confirm the Model
The first question to ask is: does the model exist? If you don't know the model, do some research and try to identify the collection. For a vintage model, ensure you find elements specific to the brand (e.g. a pattern or logo).
Check the Materials
The materials must match the brand's positioning. For example, Hermès uses top-quality leathers, while Stella McCartney opts for eco-friendly materials. With printed or embroidered materials, you can verify the pattern and color for accuracy. For example, the color of the canvas (called Zucca) on this Fendi Baguette should conform to the brand's signature shade. Check the quality, weight, and color of metal parts too; high-quality pieces are often heavier. Light or hollow pieces and color variations or discolorations indicate counterfeits....
Look at Signatures and Logos
Brand typographies often evolve over their history, so it's important to know which collection the bag comes from to ensure the typography matches the era. For example, the typography on a Balenciaga bag from the Nicolas Ghesquière era will differ from that of the Demna Gvasalia era. Always inspect the shape, spacing, and coloring of the letters to check it matches the brand's standards.
Analyze the Finishes and Stitching
Knowledge of finishes and stitching are a crucial part of our expertise. Know that hand-stitching may show irregularities, indicating artisanal work, like we'd expect to see at Hermès, while machine-made stitches should be regular. Examine edge dyeing, which protects and finishes cut edges to enhance their durability. Finishes should be smooth and uniform. Engravings on metal parts should be clear, correctly spelled, sharp, identical, and free of irregularities too.
Verify the Serial Number
Many designer bags include a serial number, varying by period and brand. Counterfeiters can replicate these, so verify their presence and correspondence with the manufacturing period. Note, however, that vintage bags rarely have a serial number. Remember that the authentication of pre-loved items is a skilled profession, which is why we always recommend buying from platforms that have mastered this expertise.
All authentication services are performed independently by Vestiaire Collective.