How We Authenticate a Pre-loved Bag
At Vestiaire Collective, we have over 15 years of experience and 60,000 hours of training that make us skilled in authenticating luxury and designer bags. Ever wondered how we authenticate all those items? Here's a few of our top tips for spotting the real deal...
Check the Year of the Collection
We start by looking at the brand and the manufacturing period. Knowing each designer and each era's specific characteristics helps spot counterfeits. For example, a vintage Dior Saddle bag would have a velcro closure, whereas a contemporary Saddle bag has a magnet.
Authenticate from the Outside In
We follow a precise methodology, and each checkpoint helps us to assess the bags' characteristics. We start by examining every detail on the exterior for errors, then repeat on the inside. We apply this method to all the additional elements too, including the packaging, dust bag, shoulder strap, and more.
Confirm the Model
The first question to ask is: does the model exist? If the model is unknown, some research is needed to identify the collection. For a vintage model, we make sure to find elements specific to the brand (e.g. a pattern or logo).
Check the Materials
The materials must match the brand's positioning. For example, Hermès uses top-quality leathers, while Stella McCartney opts for eco-friendly materials. With printed or embroidered materials, you can verify the pattern and color for accuracy. For example, the color of the canvas (called Zucca) on this Fendi Baguette should conform to the brand's signature shade. We check the quality, weight, and color of metal parts too; high-quality pieces are often heavier. Light or hollow pieces and color variations or discolorations may indicate counterfeits....
Look at Signatures and Logos
Brand typographies often evolve over their history, so it's important to know which collection the bag comes from to ensure the typography matches the era. For example, the typography on a Balenciaga bag from the Nicolas Ghesquière era will differ from that of the Demna Gvasalia era. We always inspect the shape, spacing, and coloring of the letters to check it matches the brand's standards.
Analyze the Finishes and Stitching
Knowledge of finishes and stitching are a crucial part of our expertise. Hand-stitching may show irregularities, indicating artisanal work, while machine-made stitches should be regular. We also examine edge dyeing, which protects and finishes cut edges to enhance their durability, and check that finishes are smooth and uniform. Engravings on metal parts should be clear, correctly spelled, sharp, identical, and free of irregularities too.
Verify the Serial Number
Many contemporary designer bags include a serial number, varying by period and brand, which can unfortunately be replicated. It's essential to verify their presence and correspondence with the manufacturing period. However, vintage bags rarely have a serial number.
Remember that the authentication of pre-loved items is a skilled profession, which is why we always recommend buying from platforms that have mastered this expertise.