The Trench Coat: A Deep Dive
For a highly functional coat with timeless elegance for both men and women, look no further than the trench coat. Similar to the custom leather vest, high-vis coat and denim jacket, the trench coat is the ultimate outerwear essential. It offers protection from wind and rain while remaining lightweight and cool so you can stay stylish in any weather condition. It is a highly versatile piece that pairs with everything and every season, making it a coveted closet essential that can instantly elevate an outfit. And besides, who doesn’t love a big flap pocket?
At Vestiaire Collective, we have trench coats to fit every budget and style, and since all our pieces are pre-loved you’ll be shopping with a clear conscience. Buying pre-loved pieces is simply the best way to acquire wardrobe pieces if you care about the planet.
With a fascinating history, let us show you why this effortlessly glamorous piece just might become your new favourite wardrobe piece.
Where did the Trench coat originate?
The trench coat was originally designed in the late 1800s to be worn by British military officers. Compared to the heavy coats of past military designs, the trench coat was made of a new fabric called gabardine which was invented by none other than Thomas Burberry. Later, gabardine was even the fabric of choice for the first polar explorers because of its excellent weather-proofing properties.
The trench coat was immediately a uniform of rank as only officers were allowed to buy it. The original trench coat was khaki-coloured, ten-buttoned, double-breasted and tailored to the waist. The coat contained many utilitarian features like deep pockets and D-rings to hook attachments, making it highly functional. And of course, it was all wrapped up in a weather-repellent gabardine fabric with a pleated cape to repel the rain.
When transitioning into civilian life, the trench coat provided a mark of distinction and social status. Even when the trench coat became available to the general public it retained an air of status and respectability.
In the 1940s the trench coat became a favourite of dashing leading men and sophisticated women during the golden age of Hollywood. From Humphrey Bogart to Marlene Dietrich, the trench coat developed into a symbol of mystery, allure and power that lasts to this day.
From then to now, the trench coat has transcended its military beginnings and is firmly a part of popular culture and fashion. Nowadays the trench coat comes in many variations from lengths, to fabrics, to colours, but some features like the epaulettes and deep pockets are classic. The silhouette is just as flattering on men as women and gives the wearer a chic put-together look.
Pioneers of the Macs coat : Aquascutum and Burberry
There are two pioneers that take credit for the first trench coat fabric technology- Aquascutum and Burberry. We don’t take sides, though, in the battle of these two emblematic brands. They both contributed to the creation of the staple piece that is the modern-day trench coat and both are available as sustainable picks in the vintage section of Vestiaire Collective.
It’s no wonder that both of these companies hail from the United Kingdom where the weather is famously — shall we say — damp. Aquascutum, which literally translates to ‘water shield’, was created in 1851 and is a true British heritage label. It is known for its fine craftsmanship and technological innovation, notably the invention of waterproof wool. Since then, it has been the chosen house of those with active outdoor lifestyles, dressing the British Olympic team and even Sir Edmund Hilary on his quest to climb Mount Everest. The sleek design has been favored by British royalty and Hollywood stars.
By the 1870s, another raincoat competitor was on the scene. Young Thomas Burberry revolutionised the industry with the invention of gabardine, a tightly woven worsted wool that is waterproof, breathable and doesn’t wrinkle. Designed for adventurers, the Burberry trench has seen many iterations and is now the leading name in trench coats.
You might be wondering what is the difference between a Mackintosh and a trench coat anyway. The Mac predates the trench coat by about 80 years. It is the original waterproof jacket, patented by Scottish inventor Charles Macintosh in 1823. While a game-changer in terms of dealing with the elements, the original rubber coats had some drawbacks — they were sweaty, stiff and could take on an unpleasant odour. Breakthrough technologies have improved the rubber coat considerably. Today Macs are a pared down, more streamlined type of trench coat. Still made by hand in Scotland where it all started, the Mac is lightweight and more casual than your typical trench coat.
The Trench Jacket, a Cinematic Trend
After World War I, the trench coat was recast as a fashion statement thanks to multiple trench coat movie moments during the heady 1940s Hollywood years. In classic movies like Casablanca and Breakfast at Tiffany’s, the trench coat was the wardrobe piece of choice for some of film’s most enduring scenes. Who can forget Humphrey Bogart, wearing a Burberry trench coat, walking away from Ilsa and towards the beginning of a beautiful friendship? Or Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly, in the pouring down rain, wearing a trench coat as she realises her love for Paul in one of cinema’s most iconic final scenes? Swoon.
On the silver screen, the trench coat was no longer a trench coat for men and officers. Rather, it was a sophisticated choice for men and women alike, giving an allure and mystique to the wearers. Often, the characters wearing the trench coats were working people with seductive jobs — detectives, spies, gangsters and femme fatales.
The fact that all the iconic characters who wear trench coats on screen are so different demonstrates the versatility of the trench coat. For example, Meryl Streep in Kramer vs Kramer and Marilyn Monroe in Let’s Make Love have very different backgrounds and the movies were made in very different eras, however, the trench works just as naturally in both films.
Due to the popularity of the trench coat in cinema, it acquired an air of glamour that is still present. Wearing a trench coat is an emblem of timeless elegance, harkening back to days of style and class, dashing leading men and smart leading women.
If you want to recreate the look of your favourite classic films why not check out Vestiaire’s collection of vintage trench coats? You might just be able to find your happily ever after trench coat to channel your inner Marlene Dietrich or Humphrey Bogart in a sustainable way.
Versatility of the Trench Mac
The trench coat might have been made for a very specific reason but the unparalleled versatility of the piece transcends its original intent. No longer stuck in its military past, this coat now represents a unisex style, looking equally chic on everyone regardless of gender.
From casual classic to night-time magic, the trench coat is an overcoat easy to pair with all occasions and seasons. Many trench coats come in fabric options that are light enough for the summer and super easy to layer in the colder months so it’s possible to wear the trench coat throughout the year. And, obviously, they were designed to wear in the rain so there’s no fear about getting caught unprepared in a storm while wearing one of these.
In terms of personal style, you can choose from many varied options from the gabardine classic beige to the more eccentric remastered versions from designers as wide ranging as Gabriela Hearst and Bottega Veneta. Even Burberry, who is still the leader when it comes to trench coat design, has taken to playing with its iconic offering by making them in bright colours and different materials.
The cut of a trench coat is its signature, but even that is subject to your own preferences. Longer or shorter, you are sure to find pre-loved trench coats for men and women on the Vestiaire app.
How to get the trench coat look?
Trench coats have been around for over a century now and the changes made to the design have been remarkably few. Why mess with success? It’s a testament to the fact that the trench coat is simply a good quality, functional design that can withstand the fashion’s perpetual evolution.
Since the trench coat has existed for decades, there are plenty of trench coats available on the vintage market. Looking for a sustainable coat? The Fashion Activist knows that each time you choose pre-loved over new, you are saving precious resources from being extracted from the Earth. In addition to the sustainability benefits of finding your trench coat vintage, there is something totally appealing about getting this type of historic coat second-hand. It just adds a nostalgic touch.
It is also possible to find certain cuts and patterns that you really love that might not be made anymore. Maybe you’re a classicist and want to find the iconic double breasted trench coat style of the 1940s that you adore. Or perhaps you’re looking to go more modern and emulate the edgy trompe l'oeil trench coat worn by the character of Elle Driver in the 2003 film Kill Bill. Either way, when you shop vintage, you’re bound to uncover sustainable treasures for a conscious closet.
It’s been a long time since military officers realised the myriad benefits of the trench coat, yet the appeal of it remains strong. Gaining functionality from its years as a part of a military outfit, romance from its starring roles in Hollywood, and the mark of haute couture thanks to famous fashion houses reimagining the design, the trench is a classic wardrobe must-have that will likely remain so over time.
From the fields of the First World War to the silver screen, it has served as a protective outerwear for all walks of life while adding sophistication to each of them. As a rain and wind shield, it will protect the rest of your outfit, too, which will extend your clothing lifespan, making you a better steward for the environment.
Though it is a supremely practical piece, it still manages to elevate every style with its simple classiness and helps tie the whole ensemble together. We think a pre-loved trench coat will provide you with a touch of refinement for many seasons to come. Glamorous and sustainable. That’s pretty much the definition of a pre-loved trench coat — and the perfect mantra for the Fashion Activist!