The Double Breasted Coat
The double breasted coat is one of the most historically interesting pieces. It began as a definitively casual style and has somehow made its way into the realm of black tie formality. Nevertheless, it is a classic piece in the essential men’s wardrobe. Each decade has put its own flair on this style and the 2020s are no different. The double breasted coat is becoming more and more versatile. You can wear this look as an alternative to the casual wool parka or as a tuxedo jacket, it’s so multi-functional.
Here we’ll walk you through this closet essential and help you learn how best to wear the garment that deserves a lot more credit. With a little bit of fashion expertise, you can wear this coat with panache and join a long lineage of double breasted aficionados, including James Bond himself.
Origins of the double breasted coat
The double breasted coat had its debut in the early nineteenth century. Originally coined the reefer jacket, it was a sporting jacket for English aristocracy, notably worn by the sartorially inclined Prince George, Duke of Kent. The prince was a fascinating character and a cultivated intellectual who liked fast cars as much as he liked salon evenings with the glamorous and artistic elite of his day. His double breasted suit style most likely came from Anderson & Sheppard, a Savile Row tailor whose current clients include Tom Ford and Prince Charles.
Because it was made for wear during leisure activities, the coat was considered too casual for work. However, by the 1920s, the double breasted coat was viewed as a sophisticated look. In the 1930s and 1940s, the style became favoured by prominent businessmen, bankers and the mafioso, which is why today we sometimes have an image of the double breasted being worn in dark alleyways by rakish men.
But that’s only part of the picture. The double breasted coat has been a choice look of Hollywood leading gentlemen for decades. Humphrey Bogart’s classic white dinner jacket in Casablanca is a bit of cinematic history, and symbolises the elevation of the double breasted into formal settings. Bogart, at 1.73 metres, also busted the myth that the double breasted suit should only be worn by tall men. Robert Redford rocked the popped collar double breasted look inThree Days of the Condor and even pulled off a pink double breasted waistcoat inThe Great Gatsby, demonstrating the versatility of this piece. Fast forward to the modern day and the style is still going strong. The 2015 film Spectre saw Daniel Craig, playing James Bond, in a Tom Ford double breasted overcoat.
Difference between the single breasted or Double breasted Coat?
The main difference between the single breasted and the double breasted coat comes down to the buttons. On a single breasted coat, there is only one column of buttons, usually one to three buttons in total. On a double breasted coat there is a set of buttons on both coat flaps. The other distinguishing feature of the double breasted coat is its wide overlapping front flaps, which always fasten left over right.
Double breasted jackets almost always have peaked lapels. The wider lapel helps to balance out the chest area of the suit. The peaked lapels are also what gives the double breasted a more formal finish.
A well-fitting double breasted suit has a V-shape as opposed to the Y- or X- shaped single breasted suit. Because of this, the double breasted suit is a good option if you are looking for a coat that will appear to slim your figure.
If you’re looking for a high-quality double breasted coat that contributes to the circular fashion movement, you should get yours pre-loved. Second-hand coats can have the benefit of being like-new since they usually aren’t worn on a daily basis. You can update your wardrobe with a high quality pre-loved coat, while minimising your carbon footprint.
Is a double breasted coat too formal ?
There is a myth that the double breasted coat is overly formal. But, believe it or not, the double breasted suit was once considered too relaxed for business attire.
But in reality, whether or not your coat comes across as formal depends on how you style it. A double breasted monochrome parka is not the same as a double breasted dinner jacket, after all, so if you want the flattering cut of a double breasted coat with a more casual feel, that’s completely possible. Double breasted coats might be more commonly worn with a suit or tuxedo, but by dressing down a double breasted blazer with denim or chinos, you get a refined casual look that looks great for any occasion. Your double breasted coat can even be paired with a high quality T-shirt.
Neutral colours reign when it comes to the double breasted coat, but if you want to be less formal, steer away from black. Choosing softer monochromes like a grey or navy will make it more suitable for everyday occasions.
The double breasted coat made famous by 1980s Wall Street tycoons were boxy and bulky with big shoulders. The modern double breasted coat is much more relaxed with clean lines thanks to sleek tailoring and natural shoulders. The slimmer, trimmer double breasted coat is one of the most flattering styles on nearly everyone, which is why they are popular among our community of Fashion Activists on the Vestiaire app.
Choosing between The double breasted trench, Jacket or Suit ?
So now you know the benefits of the double breasted coat look, but which type should you get between a trench, jacket or suit? This answer comes down, of course, to where you are going to wear it.
If you are looking for a formal piece for a black-tie event or a big meeting, the suit is going to be what you want. A suit is defined as a jacket that has a matching pair of trousers in the same fabric and colour. If the jacket doesn’t come with a pair of trousers, it’s probably not a suit. Though the suit is the dressiest of these three jackets, it’s also the most minimal, having very little fuss in the way of pockets, colours and other embellishments.
The double breasted coat is often found as a blazer. Sort of in between the formal suit and the casual jacket, the blazer is characterised by a tailored fit and more structure throughout. This style is versatile and you can feel free to dress it up or down to suit the need of the occasion.
The traditional trench coat is double breasted, so if you want a versatile overcoat that will protect you from wet weather and that you can wear year-round, this is your pick. It’s incredibly stylish and incredibly functional.
An optimal menswear closet might have all three styles at the ready. At Vestiaire Collective, we value building a wardrobe with quality pieces, rather than filling it with trends and fast fashion. We care about the planet and are conscious of the impact that consumption has on the environment. That’s why we encourage our global community of Fashion Activists to shop winter jackets, double breasted or otherwise, pre-loved on the Vestiaire Collective app. It’s a sustainable way to dress for success.
How to style a Double Breasted Coat
Today, the double breasted coat is enjoying a renaissance. Though it’s not as easy to wear a double breasted as other types of coats, with just a bit of know-how you can pull off this refined look.
One of the most important considerations with this style is how to button it. The most traditional double breasted style is the 6x2. That means there are a total of six buttons, and two of them fasten on the right. There is also an accessory button on the inside that should be fastened at all times. Another classic option is the Kent which is a 4x2: four buttons, two of which are fastened. Generally, it is recommended to keep the double breasted suit buttoned at all times. That said, fashion rules are meant to be broken, so if you want a more casual look, go unbuttoned!
Dressing up the double breasted coat is easy. For a less formal look that’s still suitable for a nice evening out, wear it with a turtleneck jumper. The jacket should always be the focus so keep accessories understated, though a bright pocket square is a fun way to add flair without distracting from the main event.
You can dress down a double breasted jacket by pairing it with jeans, or even linen trousers in the summertime. For a little edge, go bold and pair your double breasted jacket look with trainers.
In essence, it’s totally acceptable these days to make the double breasted coat your own. With this versatile coat, you can express your personal style as you please. The double breasted coat is a great pre-loved find for the conscious shopper who wants to shake up the status quo by making purchasing decisions that preserve the Earth. Find your double breasted coat pre-owned at Vestiaire Collective and signify that your fashion smarts are backed up by environmental awareness.
The double breasted coat has come into and fallen out of favour many times in the last century and a half. But there’s just something about it that we can’t seem to quit. This is a style of coat that manages to make the wearer look slimmer in the waist, broader in the chest and taller in general. In other words, it’s a piece of tailoring magic.
As with each decade, the double breasted has been updated to suit the modern aesthetic. With the fine and flattering designs today, the double breasted coat has evolved into a classic, refined option. But, as we’ve seen, there’s no reason to believe double breasted equals formal. Like most things, it’s all about how you style it and the intention that you give to it.
It’s rare for a double breasted coat to fit perfectly right off the rack. Yours will probably require the trip to a tailor. To offset the cost of a custom fit, you can shop the selection of pre-loved double breasted coats by top designers on the Vestiaire Collective app and find a look you’ll love, for less. Then, let the tailor craft it to your exact proportions. The only thing that feels better than a well-fit double breasted coat is wearing one that’s pre-loved for a sustainable take on this much beloved style.
It’s been a long time since military officers realised the myriad benefits of the trench coat, yet the appeal of it remains strong. Gaining functionality from its years as a part of a military outfit, romance from its starring roles in Hollywood, and the mark of haute couture thanks to famous fashion houses reimagining the design, the trench is a classic wardrobe must-have that will likely remain so over time.
From the fields of the First World War to the silver screen, it has served as a protective outerwear for all walks of life while adding sophistication to each of them. As a rain and wind shield, it will protect the rest of your outfit, too, which will extend your clothing lifespan, making you a better steward for the environment.
Though it is a supremely practical piece, it still manages to elevate every style with its simple classiness and helps tie the whole ensemble together. We think a pre-loved trench coat will provide you with a touch of refinement for many seasons to come. Glamorous and sustainable. That’s pretty much the definition of a pre-loved trench coat — and the perfect mantra for the Fashion Activist!